Fanning out from Moussoulens are the vineyards of "Cabardès AOC Vent d'est, vent d'ouest" (25 private wineries and 5 cooperatives, including Château de Pennautier, Château de Jouclary, Château de Salitis and Font Juvénal) whose heady wines, mainly reds and rosés, are made from a mix of Atlantic and Mediterranean grape varieties. "Cabardès" gradually merges with "Minervois", whilst across the valley is "Malepère", and then the wild "Corbières". Wine fairs, where you buy a glass and then sample to your heart's – or your liver's – content are regularly held. (Moussoulens' wine and truffle fair "Les Ampélofolies du Cabardès" is at the end of January). For more information about the local wines, see our Useful Links page.

If you like bubbly, Aude has its own precursor to champagne, "Blanquette de Limoux", invented by the monks of Saint Hilaire abbey who let their recipe be filched, so the legend goes, by Dom Perignon. 

Aude's markets are quintessential, a profusion of colours, shapes, and scents emanating from genuinely local produce, with everything from live snails to fresh coriander. Seasons count - asparagus is on the stands in May, and pumpkins in October, but never the opposite. There's a market somewhere every day of the week except Sunday. 

For eating out there is a whole gamut of restaurants from cheap and cheerful brasseries in Carcassonne's Place Carnot to a Michelin-starred restaurant in the shadow of a Cathar castle. Whether you prefer sophisticated haute cuisine or hearty peasant fare such as cassoulet - the classic bean-based casserole, all tastes and budgets are catered for. Your host Sue will be happy to advise you on restaurants - one of her favourite subjects!

For those occasions when you would rather not venture out in the evening - perhaps after a long day's exploring - a table d'hôte dinner in the comfort of Les Bergeries du Cabardès' living-dining room or, weather permitting, on the lovely terrace with its beguiling views can be arranged on request.

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The Abbey of St Hilaire, the birthplace of Blanquette de Limoux, said to be the precursor of champagne